I’m writing this column from Lisbon, Portugal, where my wife, Jody, and I are on vacation, having a wonderful time while, at the same time, feeling deeply guilty.

This won’t be the first time we’ve traveled outside of Israel since October 7. Earlier this year, we visited our aging parents in California to introduce them to their great-grandchildren. That was a need as much as a want – who knows if or when there will be another opportunity? 

A month after that trip, we followed our jazz saxophone-playing son, Aviv, to Switzerland, where he was headlining five nights at “Marian’s Jazzroom” in Bern. That was more a want than a need, but we still had an “excuse” for leaving Israel in the midst of a war.

But Portugal – there was no imperative to follow the music or to ensure my 92-year-old mother got to meet her offspring’s offspring’s offspring in person. 

No, this was a vacation of escape, a desire to breathe again, if only for a moment, which of course added to the feelings that we were doing something unpatriotic at a time when a Hezbollah attack had just been thwarted, Iran was still threatening retaliation, and when our hostages, those who are still alive, were still being held captive in horrific conditions.

We’re not alone in this mélange of emotions.

For most of the past 11 months, Israelis have danced along an unbidden, increasingly narrow tightrope. On the one hand, there’s the daily death toll which casts its gloom on everything, while on the other hand, we’ve been living a relatively “normal life,” taking care of our grandchildren, going out for dinners with friends, even dancing at a wedding or two.

When I read the news, I sink into despair. Then we go to a rock and roll concert. But even then, it’s impossible to deny reality.

We’ve been going to the annual Hutzot HaYotzer arts and crafts festival in Jerusalem for some 30 years. Every night of the festival a different Israeli rock band takes to the main stage in front of an ecstatic audience of thousands. This year, we caught a double concert of 80s stars Tislam and Yehuda Poliker.

The musicians referred to the hostages several times in their between-song patter. But the segment that moved Jody and me to tears was a Poliker song with a video backdrop of the ubiquitous hostage posters that can be found on nearly every street corner in Israel, each image appearing one by one.

It’s hard to let go freely when the faces smiling back at you are those who were brutally captured, raped and murdered, including while we were away our friends’ son Hersh Goldberg-Polin. And yet, like Noa Argamani after her rescue, dance we did. 

The dichotomy of life in the Middle East never ceases to amaze.

And now here we are in Portugal for 10 days. I’m trying give myself a break. Still, I find myself ping-ponging, one moment wanting to stay on top of every nugget of news, the next fantasizing about disassociating from anything Jewish or Israeli, of moving to Lisbon permanently and never mentioning Israel or Judaism again.

But then there’s the grandkids, the community we’ve amassed, the wonderful and fulfilling life we’ve built.

Perhaps that’s the nature of being a Jew in a world where antisemitism is resurgent, where Jews are canceled at literary events and booted out of professional associations: to live in that tension between joy and despair, to keep plugging away, knowing tomorrow could be worse, while at the same time never losing hope that the dayafter tomorrow will be, must be better.

We’ve lived through tough times in the past. On the day we made aliyah in 1994, IDF Corporal Nachshon Wachsman was being held captive by Hamas in an apartment north of Jerusalem. He was eventually murdered.

Two years later, suicide bombers became ever-present and we were terrified to ride on public transportation, eat out in cafes or even walk down the street without obsessively looking over our shoulders. 

We survived those and we’ll survive this time, too. 

Still, it’s profoundly disorienting to have been thrust back into history so violently. In that respect, our current situation is in keeping with the Jewish past, where yidden celebrated at smachot (joyous ceremonies like weddings), made love and raised children, all the while never knowing when or where the next pogrom was coming. 

A friend just got back from a month in Paris with his family. Were you able to enjoy yourself? I asked. “Yes,” he replied hesitantly, “but the heaviness was never far away.”

Shalom Hartman senior fellow Yossi Klein Halevi described his concerns in a recent episode of the “For Heaven’s Sake” podcast. 

“What happens when you’ve already gone through 2,000 years of Jewish history, you finally come home … and the war against Jewish legitimacy and Jewish existence doesn’t end,” as the early Zionists prayed it would.

Klein Halevi then offers a moving conclusion.

“I came here because this story matters to me more than any other story. Because this story is an extension of my own personal story. So, what happens to this story isn’t separable from what happens to me. I have to be here. I don’t have a choice. I don’t have anywhere to go. If, God forbid, this story fails, then my life has failed.”

And yet, Klein Halevi adds that he feels “this incredible privilege to be part of this. I’m in it, no matter what.”

That’s how I feel, too, even as Jody and I sit in a Lisbon café eating Pastel de Nata, a Portuguese custard tart, while pining for the delectable sandwiches from our favorite restaurant, Bruno, in Jerusalem. We’ll be back soon enough. To what, I don’t think anyone knows. But it’s still home and for that I’m grateful.

This story was first published by The Jerusalem Post.

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Covid is back. It seems like everyone I know has been exposed or infected this summer. That includes me.

Roni with her Covid positive test

My latest bout with Covid-19 stemmed from the same source as last time: not an unmasked ride on public transportation or a crowded party, but my kids. 

Our daughter, Merav, was at our house with our seven-month-old granddaughter, Roni, when Merav started to spike a fever. She hoped it was just dehydration – it had been unbearably hot for weeks – but just to be safe, she took one of our home Covid tests.

It was positive.

A few hours later, so was Roni.

Merav was bummed but not panicked. These days, she said with an air of confident nonchalance, Covid is just like a bad flu or cold. There are no rules anymore on quarantine or distancing. Most people don’t even bother to test at home. Israel has shut down the once-ubiquitous PCR drive-through stations.

The story is very different for people with PTCD – Post-Traumatic Covid Disorder. That’s not a real diagnosis in the DSM-5, but a strong correlation between PTSD and Covid has been documented, although it mainly refers to people who either were hospitalized or are suffering from long Covid (of which an estimated 17.6 million Americans are now living with, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention).

“Studies show that the experience of being hospitalized [with Covid-19] — being confused and frightened and feeling like you’re drowning — is traumatizing,” explains Cedars-Sinai psychiatrist Dr. Itai Danovitch. Up to a third of such patients develop PTSD. 

To put that in perspective, while over 90% of people experience a major traumatic event at some point during their lifetime, Danovitch notes, most of us walk away unscathed. Others, however, carry emotional scars for decades.

It’s not just for serious cases. 

When I contracted Covid for the first time two years ago, it was relatively mild. But I am still triggered by even the slightest possible exposure. 

That’s not surprising: When Covid first burst onto the scene, no one knew much about the disease, other than it was felling tens of thousands a week worldwide, eventually infecting 700 million people and killing seven million. 

In those early days, there were no vaccines and few effective treatments. OG Corona was also more virulent than today’s super-contagious but relatively benign Omicron subvariants. The rolling lockdowns of 2020 and 2021 further exacerbated the collective freak-out.

And then there’s the cancer factor: The patients who have the most life-threatening Covid outcomes remain the elderly and the immunocompromised. While I don’t yet fit the first category, I am very much in the second due to chemo and other treatments I’ve had over the years. Put it all together and, voila, it’s PTCD for me.

“I’m not sure if I’d use the word ‘trauma,’” a friend shared with me. However, after someone she was close with who was undergoing cancer treatment caught Covid and died, “I’m definitely taking it more seriously than before.” 

Another friend has essentially been bedridden with long Covid, suffering from kidney and heart problems. “Covid is not a cold. It’s not a flu. It’s a vascular/neurological illness similar to HIV. It’s insane to me that anyone would be nonchalant about getting or spreading Covid.”

An old college buddy concurred. “It affects every organ in your body in a way that makes you susceptible to more serious things like diabetes. The more you get Covid, the greater the risks for your body.”

“We still don’t know all of the things that Covid does, how it does it, and why,” notes Lara Jirmanus, a clinical instructor at Harvard Medical School. Not taking Covid seriously represents a kind of “hubris that almost assumes we can see the future.”

I was fortunate that, this time around, my Covid was mostly mild again. I barely had a cough and no fever. My nose was stuffy and I had a nasty headache.

Which led to the next challenge for my PTCD: getting out of Covid.

After a dozen or so days, I was starting to feel better – not perfect, but improved. So, I took a second home Covid test.

Still positive.

Jody and I were invited to the wedding of the son of some of our closest friends the next night. I certainly didn’t want to be responsible for a super spreader event.

The mother of the groom happens to be a doctor. So I asked her.

“I doubt you’re contagious after all this time,” she said, adding that the event will be outside, which should mitigate some of my concerns. “Please come. We couldn’t have a wedding without you guys there!”

Merav and Roni are fine now. Merav’s husband, Gabe, and our two-and-a-half-year-old grandson, Ilai, never got sick – or if they did, they were among the estimated one out of three people who catch Covid and are asymptomatic. 

Another possibility: The journal Nature reported in June 2024 that some people may never catch Covid due to high levels of activity in a gene called HLA-DQA2.

As for me, at the three-week mark, I was still testing positive. My doctor told me to start with the antiviral Paxlovid, which had helped me last time. Even though Paxlovid is not supposed to be used after the first five days of symptoms, my hematologist said there’s anecdotal evidence it can work even when administered later. 

“You can handle this,” Jody reassured me, repeating the mantra I’ve been working on lately.

The Paxlovid worked thankfully; another five days and I was finally feeling fine. The entire experience was more annoyance than aggravation. It was, looking at it objectively and in hindsight, far from traumatic.

No, I’m not about to throw caution entirely to the wind. But at the same time, I’m trying my hardest to not let PTCD lock me down again. 

I first wrote about PTCD for The Jerusalem Post.

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Is R48 the best hotel in the world?

by Brian on August 26, 2024

in Reviews,Travel

The glass elevator at the R48

When I asked a colleague for a recommendation for a hotel where my wife and I could celebrate our 36th(“double chai”) wedding anniversary, my colleague didn’t hesitate. “The R48,” he replied. “It’s probably the best hotel I’ve ever stayed at – not just in Israel but anywhere in the world!”

After a recent stay, I would have to concur. 

The R48 Hotel and Gardens, located at 48 Rothschild Boulevard in Tel Aviv (hence the name) is an 11-room boutique hotel with a meticulously designed interior ensconced inside a classic Bauhaus-style building that had been for many years an abandoned eyesore used by drug dealers and the homeless.

Exterior of R48 in classic Bauhaus style

No more. 

In 2012, Canadian Jewish billionaire couple Heather Reisman (founder and CEO of Indigo Books and Music) and Gerald Schwartz (chairman of private equity firm Onex) bought the building, which is one of 4,000 or so boxy Bauhaus structures across the city that have earned Tel Aviv UNESCO world heritage status along with the nickname “the White City.”

Reisman and Schwartz already owned the building next door, housing the HESEG Foundation, which provides free university tuition to Lone Soldiers in Israel. But they’d never run a hotel before, so the Canadians partnered with Ruti and Mati Broudo, owners of the R2M Group, a key player in Tel Aviv’s tourist and culinary scene. 

R2M operates restaurants, bars, live music venues and other properties including the Montefiore boutique hotel, the Norman and the Poli House.

The R48, which took ten years to refurbish and opened in 2022, is the crème de la crème of the growing R2M hospitality empire “The idea was to feel like you were going to your best friend’s house,” Reisman told Azure Magazine in 2023 – that is, if your best friend’s house sports rooms that start at around $2,000 a night.

The R48 experience starts before you even arrive. “Send us a WhatsApp 10 minutes before you get here and we’ll wait for you on the street,” Arielle, the cheery front desk manager who made aliyah 15 years ago from North America, wrote to us. And indeed, Arielle and valet/bellman Max were there to take our car and luggage – a nice touch given there’s no parking on Rothschild.

Arielle didn’t just check us in and point our way to the elevator; she walked us to our suite and explained all the high-tech devices we’d need to operate.

That included iPad screens throughout to control the lights, air conditioning and blackout shutters; instructions on how to “cast” one’s laptop or iPhone to one of the two flat-screen TVs; and how to operate the piece de la resistance – the suite’s Japanese toilet. Open the bathroom door and the toilet lid automatically rises as the unit gives itself a quick rinse. The seat is heated; when you’re done, there are three settings of spray, pulse and air dry.

To top it off, there’s also a second bathroom – if you’ve ever had to fight with your spouse over who gets to use the toilet in a normal hotel room, this is truly the height of luxury.

The minibar was more a maxibar – three drawers stuffed with drinks and snacks. Two of the most delicious blueberry muffins were waiting for us on the dining room table in addition to a bottle of wine, a tray of finger sandwiches, olives and some tasty slightly pickled cucumbers.

We stayed in the Garden Suite, a mid-level room for the R48. But there was nothing “mid” about this room, which at 80 square meters, was larger than our first apartment in Israel. At NIS 6,400 a night – equivalent to a month’s rent – it’s more than the Bauhaus Suite (at “just” NIS 3,500) but less than the penthouse (starting at NIS 10,500).

Living room area

The furniture in the suite – and throughout the hotel – is from the French Studio Christian Liaigre and featurestulipwood, assamela and walnut. The tranquil garden outside the front lobby was helmed by Dutch landscape designer Piet Oudolf, who also planned New York’s High Line elevated linear park.

When we visited, it was in the midst of the nerve-wracking “waiting period” before Hezbollah’s and Iran’s declared retaliation following Israel’s targeted assassinations in Beirut and Tehran. We debated for days whether it was prudent to take a vacation in Tel Aviv, the presumed epicenter for any attack. Our compromise: to stay close to the hotel and its bomb shelter. Rather than explore the city, we lounged around the foliage-rimmed rooftop pool – both the day we arrived and afterward.

Rooftop pool

For breakfast, don’t expect a classic Israeli buffet with endless fish, cheese and eggs. Instead, the buffet is served to your table. There were more of those delectable muffins, various kinds of bread and rolls, and omelets with a mound of smoked salmon on the side. Even without the all-you-can-eat ambiance, we still walked away stuffed.

Breakfast area

It’s not that often that an elevator is a tourist attraction, but the R48’s is something special. When the team at AN+ Architects was working on the design, one of the original stairwells was beyond repair. In its place is a 360-degree glass lift that’s essentially an entire room complete with a couch to sit on and an enormous book of Annie Liebowitz photographs. The hotel is peppered with local Israeli art from well-known artists including Ori Gersht, Tal Shochat and Anis Ashkar.

If I had to come up with any complaints, there was but one; the windows weren’t particularly soundproof in our suite, so the sounds of the city crept in (and every garbage truck sounded to me like an air raid siren). 

So, is the R48 “the best hotel in the world?” It’s certainly at the top of my list. For your next visit to Tel Aviv, it should be on yours, too.

My review of the R48 appeared in The Jerusalem Post.

Photo credits: Brian Blum and the R48 Hotel and Gardens.

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Every year in mid-August, my wife, Jody, and I celebrate our wedding anniversary by doing something fun – a night at a hotel, a good meal, a trip abroad. This year, I wanted to mark the occasion in writing, by recounting our story – how we met and fell in love.

The tale begins in 1985 when Jody and I had come to Israel, separately, after completing our undergraduate degrees. I had been a participant on the Livnot U’lehibanot program in Safed the previous year, while Jody was working with seniors, also in Safed, through Sherut La’am, after completing six months of the WUJS ulpan, then based in Arad.

Livnot was holding a seuda shlishit (Shabbat third meal) on its Safed campus; I was visiting as an alumnus while Jody was invited as a local Anglo.

Jody and I were both signed up to attend the Pardes Institute of Jewish Studies in the fall, so someone at the meal introduced us.

I was smitten from the moment we met. 

If this is the kind of person who goes to Pardes, I thought to myself, I made the right decision!

Jody, however, had a different reaction.

“If this is the kind of person who goes to Pardes,” she lamented, “maybe I should reconsider.”

I was not, how shall we put this politely, quite as hip as I’d later become.

Or maybe it was that other twist: Jody was there…with her fiancée. And he was not me.

At the end of the meal, we went our separate ways, but we met up again at Pardes where I promptly asked Jody if she’d be my havruta (study partner) for Mishna class. She declined. 

I was persistent. How about Humash (the five books of Moses)? She already had a havruta. Prayer? Nope. Jewish thought? Got someone there, too.

I finally wore Jody down and she agreed to be my partner for one hour a week in Tzvi Wolff’s class on Halacha (Jewish Law).

Once we had a framework for meeting up regularly, we got to know each other better. We enjoyed each other’s company and started becoming closer. 

A few months into the school year, Jody broke off her engagement. It had nothing to do with me. I immediately asked Jody out on a date.

“Let’s just be friends,” she replied. 

Ouch. After all this time, I was relegated to the buddy zone. But fast friends we became. 

By chance, we wound up living in the same apartment building (on different floors with different roommates) and were together nearly every Shabbat, hosting friends, preparing divrei Torah (words of Torah), and learning Shabbat zemirot (songs). Within months, we were inseparable.

One day over lunch I shared a thought: Our friendship was bound to change once we started dating other people. What we had could not be sustained. We both subscribed to the belief that it’s nearly impossible to be friends with someone from the opposite sex while in a romantic relationship with someone else.

That was the straw that broke the back of Jody’s resistance. Three weeks later, we were a couple.

I now had everything I’d dreamed about – the woman I’d fallen for a year earlier and had waited patiently for her to come around. So, of course, I proposed quickly.

Nah.

Instead, I became inexplicably if stereotypically commitment-phobic. We dated for a year and a half before I finally popped the question at Greens, a gourmet vegan restaurant in the San Francisco Bay Area, where we had moved together in 1987 to pursue secondary degrees.

We’ve been married for 36 years (our anniversary was this Wednesday), although even our anticipated nuptials were nearly sidelined when, instead of a ring, I procured a lacquered pin of a dead butterfly. My reasoning was ostensibly noble: I wanted Jody to be able to pick out her own ring. But the whole “dead butterfly instead of a ring” became a running gag over the years until Jody found a way to incorporate it into one of her stunning mosaic art projects.

There’s a second love story embedded in the first: Israel.

We thought we’d be in the U.S. for just a year or two, and then we intended to make aliyah. Instead, we were there for seven. 

Friends who knew about our Israel plans began to get impatient. “Why are you still here?” they would ask, especially after the local Israel Aliyah Center ran a series of ads in the Jewish Bulletin featuring staged photos of Jody and me with suitcases plastered with El Al stickers. For the ad copy, we were interviewed – entirely coincidentally – by Jody’s ex- fiancée’s mother! Those ads appeared in print for a good two years before we eventually got up the gumption to go.

There was another wrinkle: During our years in California, I had gotten comfortable in my work life. I had a well-paying job in a then-up-and-coming industry (producing multimedia “edutainment” CD-ROMs). 

My commitment phobia had found a new address.

But just like my comment years earlier – that things would undoubtedly change if we stayed where we were – I knew we had to give Israel a chance or we’d be forever second-guessing ourselves.

So, in October 1994, 10 years after we had first arrived in Israel, we were back, this time as formal new immigrants. And while life in Israel has never been easy – all the more so over the last two years of war and the attempted judicial coup that preceded it – we’re still here and as committed to this country as we are to each other.

I first shared the story of our love at The Jerusalem Post.

Aliyah advertisement appeared in the Jewish Bulletin of Northern California in 1992.

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The resurgence of antisemitism in the 21st century has been unnerving and dangerous, but it shouldn’t come as a surprise, writes founder of The Free Press and former New York Times and Wall Street Journal staffer Bari Weiss in her 2019 book, How to Fight Anti-Semitism.

Composed partly in response to the 2018 murders at the Tree of Life synagogue in Pittsburgh, where Weiss became a bat mitzvah, this brief (200-page) book explores how we got to this distressing point – well before October 7 multiplied antisemitic attacks and language tenfold – and what we can do about it.

I’m not going to go into details here about the horrific history of antisemitism – more qualified scholars have written extensively on the subject – but I wanted to share excerpts from Weiss’s final chapter, simply titled “How to fight.” The book may be a few years old, but the calls to action are even more relevant today.

Weiss’s approach is to accentuate the positive. “Building is better than begging, affirming is better than adjuring.” And while “nothing can remind you of who you are like a gut punch, the Jews did not sustain their magnificent civilization because they were anti-antisemites. They sustained it because they knew who they were and why they were.”

Here are a few of Weiss’s suggestions for fighting antisemitism.

Trust your discomfort. We try to “put on a good face, to blend in with our neighbors, keen not to play the victim” writes Weiss. That might have worked for a brief time, but that time is over. “If an organization you supported is making common cause with [antisemites], don’t look for a way to justify a relationship.” That’s an important rejoinder for Jewish supporters of protest groups like Students for Justice in Palestine or Jewish Voice for Peace. “Do not give your time and money to causes, institutions, nonprofits or universities that condone antisemitism.”

Resist hierarchical identity politics. For the Right, Jews can never be white enough. For the Left, Jews can never be oppressed enough. “Typically, the only way out of this vise is for the Jew to confess her sins and disavow part of herself,” Weiss writes. But any party “that forces us … to check part of our identity at the door is not one worth joining.”

Call it out. Especially when it’s hard. Publicly calling out antisemitism risks you being called “hysterical, oversensitive, a racist [or a] white supremacist.” But the opposite response – to hold your tongue and “hope someone changes the subject” has led to “a conspiracy of silence [that has taken] hold among too many progressive Jews. Outrage is increasingly reserved for the privacy and safety of our own homes. This tactic will not stop the spread of antisemitism. It will hasten it.”

Apply the kippa (or Magen David) test. If you’re in a public venue where you might be the only Jew in the room, don’t hide symbols of your faith. You want people to know you’re not afraid, Weiss writes. “Ask yourself if where you’re living passes the ‘kippa test.’ If you would be uncomfortable wearing a kippa or Magen David necklace in your neighborhood, you should make a plan to improve your neighborhood or make a plan to leave it.” I recommend checking out Israel.

Don’t trust people who seek to divide. Here, Weiss is referring to the warped phenomenon where antisemites try to separate “good” Jews (those who unequivocally denounce Israel) from “bad” Jews (i.e., those “evil genocidal Zionists”). You shouldn’t have to renounce your beliefs to pander to the haters.

Notice your enemies. But even more, notice your friends. “A thousand voices condemning you – even ten thousand – will be drowned out when a single person you admire tells you that you are courageous, that you are standing up for what’s right, that you’ve inspired them to do the same. Make sure you’re listening closely [then] pay it forward by being that voice for someone else.”

Fight antisemitism on our own side. There is power in showing up. “The people complaining about bigotry on the Left who think ‘someone else will deal with this, I’d rather go to brunch’ are either lazy or not seeing the big picture,” Weiss quotes Amanda Berman who runs a progressive Jewish organization called Zioness. “We have to be as intolerant of antisemitism from our political allies as from our foes.”

Stop blaming yourself. Why do some of us believe that antisemitism is somehow our fault? Maybe “because that is what the world has told the Jews for so long. [But if] reasonable people do not blame rape victims for their choice of dress … we should not place ourselves in the position of beseeching our enemies to affirm that we are not, in fact, pigs,” Bar-Ilan University’s Ze’ev Maghen wrote many years ago and whom Weiss cites in her book.

Nurture your Jewish identity. For Jews in the Diaspora, that might be deciding to have Shabbat dinner every week, sending your children to a Jewish day school or booking a trip to the Holy Land. Cultivating and strengthening your Jewish identity is “one of our most powerful weapons” against antisemitism.

Tell the truth. “This sounds simple, but it may be the hardest rule to follow. Sometimes we tell ourselves lies because reality is too painful to face,” Weiss warns. Are we being truthful when we stick with former progressive “allies” who have since turned against us?

One person can change history. When faced with uncertainty, we tend to believe that there’s nothing an individual can do. But history tells us otherwise. “If Churchill had not possessed his singular resolve, we might all be speaking German,” Weiss writes. Think about the influence of Zionist founder Theodore Herzl or Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu or, heaven forbid, Adolph Hitler. One person can make an enormous difference. Can it be you?

I first wrote about how to fight antisemitism for The Jerusalem Post.

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